I'm back, but my body isn't sure yet...

The Grand Mosque

It's been almost a week since my last day in Albania.  Last Tuesday, I got up at 6 am Albania time (9 pm Monday on the West Coast), and finally pulled my "wheelie" through the front door 29 hours later.  A long day!  My trip was pretty much without a hitch, except the last leg.  You see, spring along the West Coast is accompanied by "June gloom"...  FOG!  Santa Maria Airport was closed and my flight was canceled.  Thank goodness that United Airlines opted to send us in a van so we didn't have to find a room for the night and then make the one hour flight the next morning.

I'm fascinated by all the wires!

The day before I left, Monday, dawned sunny and warm in Tirana... no fog there and no rain, thank goodness!  After spending some time planning, making final disbursements and beginning "final packing," I headed downstairs for breakfast and a meeting with Frank and Ornela from the prison minisitry.

Evening produce market

Recall that during our first week, we met with three social workers employed by a prison ministry in Albania.  Apparently, the only women's prisons in Albania are in Tirana; there are two.  First is the permanent "camp" where sentences are served (housing 80 or so women), and the other is "pre-detention" where women are housed before and during their trials (about 40 women).  Personal resources and hygienic supplies are sometimes inadequate in both prisons, so much of the ministry's budget is spent meeting those needs.  Recall, though, that sewing machines have been placed by this ministry in both prisons, and that a seamstress visits each prison twice weekly.  So, how might we be able to help? 

The Opera House - after the Big Dig

National Museum after the Big Dig!

Well, it seems that recently they have decided to look for an ongoing project, one that would allow  churched women to meet with the prisoners once a month or so.  We discussed our ministry and what we have been doing.  There was general agreement that using the "quilting bee" format to make quilting blocks which could then be made into a quilt, pillow or wall hanging would fit their plan just fine... they were ready to start next month... Whoa!  We need to partner with a church.  And, we need supplies.  And, we need to know how many women would participate, whether we would start with the pillow first, and so on.  So, we spent some time addressing these issues, and decided that we will target start date as next fall.

Huma and Hebibe, Donna watching

At work!

Next, on to the International Protestant Assembly... to help them finish the pillows begun Friday.  Huma was there, and raring to go.  We finished the back for her first pillow, then she started on the second and proceeded on her own.  Hebibe, who was the first to finish the table runner last spring, meticulously finished her first pillow, and started on her second.  Vitoria, though, who was focused on the goal, needed very little help from me as she completed both pillows and showed everyone the table runner from the last year. 

Hebibe with her pillow

Vitoria, with pillows and table runner

While everyone completed their pillows, I met with Barry, their pastor, and his new women's pastor, Lisa, who hails from Delaware.  Although not a quilter, she seems ready to work on an ongoing sewing group... (or perhaps two - to target those who cannot come during the day), and using the machines to help with church planting in the villages (remember Donna?  She is planting a church, and Huma is one of its prominent members).  And, guess what!  They are willing to consider a women's outreach, perhaps beginning in the fall, to minister to women in jail!  Is that God, or what?  So, we will keep in touch with Lisa, while they'll try to get various quilting fabrics (someone is coming from Ohio soon), and we'll see what we can do to make this happen!  Unbelievable!

These black-clad women are all too common

On to visit Dori - we have had so little time.  But, that requires a 45 minute trek down the river to Tirana Re (New Tirana).  Then a visit with Migena in the only smoke-free coffee bar I've visited so far in Albania.  We needed to clear up a few things for the widows, and to strategize.  We have managed to find her a sewing machine, and the resources to buy a second.  That way, both of the widows we met can travel together into town from Bathore and take lessons from the seamstress Migena has lined up.  Then a trek back to Stephen Center to meet Rudina so she can take me to the women's group from a church plant nearby.

Women at Melodye's kitchen tabl

Well, it's Monday night, and supplies are pretty slim - I've dispensed virtually everything I brought with me.  The stuff I had for them is in the packer that I just found out is still on the tarmac in San Francisco, so I shared with them the purse that Kathie brought, and told them they had a lot of faith... we were making a pillow but they didn't know what it would look like.  And, what's more, we had no machine.  So, we hand sewed the fabrics together and got them started on the block - the instructions are going off to Melodye as soon as I finish here.

Skanderbeg - in the cdenter of the Big Dig

A long and busy day... but such an encouraging one.  It sure seemed like God had left the best 'til last... leaving me with a strong desire to just stay here and get this done.  Well, next time... God willing.  And, perhaps next time we can get a picture of Skanderbeg without a crane behind him!

Mirupafshen!

The last day

Due to my blasted illness, this last day promises to be quite busy!  So, let's get started!

To pick up from yesterday, Thursday was in Lushjne.  By the way, does anyone know the history of Lushnje?  It's quite interesting... but for another day.  If anyone knows, then fill us in by writing a comment!

Hard at work at IPA

Vitoria, first to finish top

Huma and Donna - all done!

A seamstress and Donna

Friday was the day to place the sewing machines.  Remember I told you that the "Action Packer" that Joe had checked was yet to arrive?  Well, it still hadn't (and hasn't yet), so we went to the International Protestant Assembly with two machines.  Lisa is the new women's minister, and she met us there with her version of the current virus (I'm not the only one with this cold!), and slowly, as happens in Albania, people began to show up.  We had eventually about seven or eight women - all interested in having one of those pillows!  Actually, two... each kit made two.

Huma was from a village where Donna is planting a church.  I understand it was the first time she had ever used a sewing machine.  Huma was determined to finish the pillow cover, and finally did... 5 1/2 hours after we started!  For the others who didn't finish it all, we are heading back today to give them the final instructions.  It sounds like the staff there will be using those machines exactly as I had envisioned - praise God!

Friday night, after all that sewing and a brisk walk home, I was tired!  I had to prepare for Saturday.

A wood heated meeting room

Children on the playground at center

The upstairs play room

Migena with some of th

Saturday was not exactly a sewing day, but rather one to investigate a center in Bathore, a mission called GlobalCare, to see if we could help in some way.  Under the tutelage of Avis, this center provides a meeting place, child care, and other services to the surrounding poor neighborhoods.  Although I did not have the pleasure of meeting Avis, she chose two women who are being helped by the center for me to meet. But first, the center... an upstairs play room for the kids, complete with equipment to climb on... a playground out front for outside play... a large sunny meeting room which could accommodate sewing someday... a few offices and crafts for sale.

Nixhmije, her children, mother and a worker from the center.

The first woman was 29 year old Nixhmije with five children ranging in age from about 2 to about 10 years old.  She had attended school until the 8th grade, and was married at the age of about 16.  Her husband spent the last few years of his life in a bitter depression which eventually led him to commit suicide almost four years ago by hanging himself.  He was found by his daughter, Lula, then about 1-2 years old.  Nishmije currently lives in a rented home with her mother and father (who has had a stroke and is partially paralyzed).  She has worked at sewing shoes in a factory, but was fired when she had to stay home with a sick child.  Her oldest son wants to be a cook, and her younger son an engineer.  They live on about $50 every other month from the state and some handouts from her brother who still lives in the village.  Despite their poverty, they were gracious and served us a drink and candies, as is the Albanian way.

Piece work - 13 cents a shoe

Vera and family

Vera is 21 years old and has two daughters, one of whom is in school and doing well.  She currently lives with her three brothers, mother and epileptic father in a house the family owns.  Until recently, their house had just two rooms.  The center helped to add on two additional rooms, an indoor sink and a bathroom.  She was married at about 16, arranged by her uncle, to an Albanian construction worker in Greece.  He died of an "attack" almost four years ago when she was just 1 month pregnant with her second child.  Her education is to the 2nd grade; she can read, but can't write or do arithmetic.  Currently, her mother and she do piecework... hand-sewing those beautiful Italian shoes - so think of that the next time you buy a pair.  They receive 13 Lek (or about 13 cents) per shoe. 




Well, these are sad stories and my heart breaks... but what can we do?  That was my next question.  Well, both women would like to learn to sew, and Migena has a friend in Tirana who is willing to teach them.  But, they need sewing machines.  So, off to the sewing machine store.

One of his favorites

We'll see him again!

So, you think you just find the nearest Singer dealer, right?  Well, not so fast... there are none.  At least, if there are, they need to do better advertising because nobody knows where they are.  So, we went to a fellow who repairs machines, and asked what machines he had.  He had some reconditioned Pfaffs.  So, we bought it - and one for Dori and her church.  Kathie had actually left money to do that as part of her ministry.  You don't just ask the price, though, you  must barter otherwise everyone feels cheated of the entertainment.  So, you hem and haw, ask a lot of questions, and finally come up with an agreeable price... probably higher for me than it would have been for an Albanian.

Then to Dori's for lunch, again to the repair shop to get Dori's machine fixed, a smoothie at the Stephen Center, then church with Alban and Dori (Alban translated for me - he does such a good job).  My cough was returning (remember the "night air"?), so hightailed it back to my room, and dropped into bed.  Sunday was church at IPA, then a day of rest.

Well, you are now up to date.  I'm currently putting on my running shoes... it promises to be a marathon today.  See you soon!

Let's catch you up on our comings and goings

 Check out the icons!

Good grief!  It's been over a week since my last blog!  Well, I have a doctor's excuse!  I think I've had influenza, followed by a bacterial bronchitis/pneumonitis.   I finally broke down and started some antibiotics.  Today the dry cough has returned.  So, I'm hoping the cough is just the "night air," a statement that somehow doesn't sound too 21st century.  Hopefully,  after a warm shower, hot tea and a good night's sleep the cough will disappear and be only a bad memory. 

View of Berat from the castle

A magnificent castle!

The message... the Gospel

Cobbled street

Sonila, Petrit and family

Rhonda and Kathie had a wonderful time in Berat - my time there was a blur... I slept about 40 hours, waking just in time to take a van back to Tirana to again hit the sack.  Berat is a beautiful town, filled with hills and steep walks on cobblestone streets.  We did two classes there... everyone was so understanding about my blasted virus... Kathie and Rhonda were troopers, standing in for me with everyone.  As a reward, by travel partners got a VIP tour of the castle in Berat, and many of the churches were opened so they could view the icons painted by Berat's master painter - Onufri.  I'm sure you will agree the castle is beautiful.  Sonila and Petrit were such wonderful hosts!  And they live in an absolutely beautiful city.

Finished in Berat!

To work in Berat!

Sonila, Elvira, and Dori

 Tuesday, early (around 3:00 am - those of you who have taken the 4:25 flight will remember the early taxi ride),  I waved good-bye to Rhonda and Kathie, then headed back to bed for the day... I must admit that virus really took the stuffing out of me... I literally slept most of the day.  Ditto on Wednesday, but I had scheduled Dori's church in the late afternoon (4:30), expecting to feel better.  They are quite accomplished sewers, two of whom were trying to sandwich the baby quilts by the time they are needed (they are both pregnant).

Wednesday, the pastoral team was to arrive mid-afternoon, but they were delayed in San Francisco, causing a missed connection in Frankfurt.  Consequently, they arrived around midnight.  We didn't get a chance to catch up until Thursday breakfast when I learned that the third "Action Packer" had not yet arrived.  No problems, I felt sure that it would arrive before I leave.

Sue, Katie and Blair

A lazy game of cards

I headed out on Thursday morning to visit Blair, Sue and Katie (missionaries from our partner church in Kentucky) in Lushnje.  It was a wonderful time - I had a chance to people watch, and tried to figure out what characteristics make it so easy to distinguish between Europeans and Americans - posture? clothing? facial expressions?  Let me know what you think.  We had lunch... I should have taken a picture of the fish.  In Albania, when you order fish, you get the whole thing... eyes, mouth...  It was delicious, the presentation was just a little different from home.

In somewhat typical human fashion, the car driver who had committed to take me back to Tirana turned off his phone and "got lost."  Blair found me a free trip to Tirana with a tour group returning from Athens.  It was on the trip home that I finally decided that it was obvious I really wasn't getting better, and decided to start the antibiotics that Rhonda had left for me.

Although I started this Saturday evening, it is now Sunday morning, and time for church.  Guess you'll have to tune in again to hear the rest of what's happened this week... it is amazing!