It's Wednesday - and it's rain again

I can't believe it's been since Sunday that I have written.  It seems like the time is going incredibly fast, and it seems like I am busier than ever.

A fellow "walking" his cow in search of grass

We've done sewing, jewelry, and have both scheduled for the next week.  Also, a prison visit and conversation with the health care team about the hospital.  I have heard rumors that something has been happening at the hospital, so don't know if it is still available.  But, God knows.  Then, there is  lots of strategizing.

One of the things I hope I add here is a little "thinking outside the box" for those who are here full time.  And, cross-pollination...  For instance, one friend is very excited about the Christmas panair (think the Christmas markets in Hamburg, Munich, Budapest, etc. - this is what I'm shooting for in a few years), and when I talked to Berti and Adi, they could see the possibilities, too.  The churches could participate, candy canes (with the story of how they came to be) could be available.  While we were talking about the panair, a friend of theirs from the church in Elbasan talked about the problems she is having there... her ministry feeds children, widows and the elderly, many of whom live in shacks, literally.  We talked about food, strategizing about how to organize the people under her influence to share their food... Berti talked with her at some length.  Hopefully, we will be able to go to Elbasan in the fall with something for them... I'm not sure that sewing is what they could use, but perhaps jewelry.

Korca - the Paris of Albania

Saw some photos of a panair in Lezha which happened yesterday without much notice - but it included many of the things that I hope will happen at Christmas.  They had dancers walking around in traditional garb, local foods and crafts.  But, my friend said that it could have been vastly improved... and she is the organization person. 

While Bill was here, we had the opportunity to look at various products in stores, prices, and we strategized at length about what might sell and which kind of stores to place the products we complete.  We're working with ladies here on jewelry as well as traditional products.  One of the ladies made a blouse which I think is quite sale-able, and there are those she knows who know traditional arts to embellish the blouse.  So, while I think at the end of the day, when I'm alone, that not much has been done - and perhaps you think that all I'm doing is traveling around - when I sit right now and think about it, I think we have made progress.

Most homes have a grape arbor

The weather warmed on Monday - yesterday was warm and humid.  Today is a little cooler, but promises rain.  Bugger!  And, I have a sore throat, cough and chest congestion.  I forgot to pack the zinc lozenges I usually use to try to head off a cold, and will have to begin a scavenger hunt for them because I think they may well help.  With the warmer weather come open windows... and I had just managed to capture and execute the dive-bombers which had been leaving me with what appear to be chicken pox each morning!  I get a blistering reaction to mosquito bites!

OK, I should probably get going... this afternoon I have a jewelry class and a sewing class scheduled as well as a meeting.  So, it promises to be a busy day.  Miss you guys - actually about now I usually get a little homesick, and begin to wonder if God is doing much through me... but I know He is here, and I trust I am doing what He would have me do.  I trust that He smiles in pleasure at the end of each day at what has been done... that is my goal!

Mirpafshem!

Easter Sunday in Tirana

Gezuar Pashket!  Zoti e bekofte! (Happy Easter!  God bless you!)

Well, it has dripped, if not rained, all yesterday and today.  Bill left yesterday at about 2:45 am for his 26-27 hour long trek home and he has e-mailed me to say that he arrived in one piece.  For the first time in Albania, I feel alone.

Emiljan, me, Genta, Blerina, Klajdi

I slept after Bill left, then worked on my computer trying to organize things, then joined a friend for a trip to Lezha to spend Easter with her family.  We took a bus, then shopped for dinner, then she made an incredible bounty!  Her sister-in-law's kitchen is small, and I am not a "natural" in the kitchen, so I stayed out of the way.  We had a feast with her brother and sister and their spouses and one little niece.  Also, two cousins joined us - after dinner we relaxed watching the Albanian version of "Master Chef."  It works a little differently - they start out with 25 or so cooks, then whittle it down to one over several weeks.  It is a favorite show here, at least among the people I know.  After church, I realized I hadn't taken a photo - we are at left - Emiljan and Blerina are siblings to my friend, Genta.   Ada, Emil's wife and his daughter were home.

Watching the childrens' program

Genta's home church is the largest in Lezha, and is large compared to many of the churches I have attended here.  This celebration is combined with a much smaller Friends church in the city.

A skit by the older kids

The children put on quite a show this morning - songs and a skit about a storekeeper who was having many problems.  At the end, the girl who witnessed to him talked about "my truth and your truth" and made a very salient point quite brilliantly, I thought.  She picked up a magazine to buy, and when she was leaving without paying, she said that "For you, you are selling it, but for me it is free."  Somehow, it came off better in person.

Singing - this little girl caught my eye

According to Genta, many of the children/youth here are not affiliated with parents who attend the church.  Fabulous!  

We have talked about a Christmas bazaar in Tirana - you could pray that it "pans out."  In my dream, it would have multiple stalls for traditional, hand-made products made by villagers and disenfranchised alike - read widows and Roma.  We could have a food booth, and people walking around in traditional dress, and...  you see what happens to me over here?  While it seems like a dream to me, it sounds like it is a very doable idea to Genta!  We will pray and do what we can.

Well, I am back in my room at the Stephan Center, and making plans for a busy week.  I hope to do several sewing projects, meet with the Roma missionaries again to see if we can collaborate, and I already have a few craft projects scheduled.  I'll let you in tomorrow (if tomorrow isn't TOO busy!!).  But, for now, I will say Mirpafshim, my friends.  See you soon.

Soggy Wednesday, the 16th

Has it really been since Saturday?  I have been having problems with the internet - first in Korce where, despite my best efforts, I could not get on.  Here, in Tirana, I do not have internet in my room, and I have so busy that the restaurant has been closed, or my eyes have been!  So, it has been longer than I thought.

Saturday we traveled to Korce from Pogradec.  Check out a map!!  Oh, and by the way, nobody won the prize for telling me what is so special about Lake Ochrid!  OK, I get to eat the prize myself!!  Your loss!

Alban, Dori and Sharon getting a tour from Hirolinda

Before we headed out, though, we stopped at a small village where there is a compound that has been built by a German humanitarian group - Nehemiah.  Perhaps some of the AERO alums will recognize the name... it is where the teams stayed when they were centered in Pogradec.  What an incredible compound.  They now have a school, K-12, and a university granting BA and MA in one course of study... I think it is business administration or something to do with business.  It is amazing... lots of things going on and lots of

The chapel

Lots of new construction

 construction.  There is also a small medical clinic in this compound which serves the community as well as
those in the school.

Then up in the mountains we traveled... seeing more and more horse and donkey carts loaded with goods, lots of cows on "leashes" being taken out to eat along the road, or donkeys with unwieldy loads.  The donkeys here surely "earn their keep."  The people live primarily in villages - obviously, the ones I saw were close to the road.  The farming here is mostly by small family farm.  A family owns

A typical family farm

a strip of land, then plants whatever.  There were not many tractors in evidence, the plowing probably being drawn by a donkey.
   
It's interesting, Alban says that the villages are where the one story buildings begin, and the city is where the multistory apartment buildings are.  While that may have been true, the farmers are selling off their land to developers... sound familiar?

Terraced hills

And, another oddity - well, not exactly an oddity, but a curiosity to my eyes.  Remember that for 50 years, Albania was governed by a Communist dictator.  He felt that it was wasteful to have hills covered with trees or scrub rather than fruit trees.  So, he ordered the people to "volunteer" to terrace the hills and plant fruit trees.  Very few of the trees have survived, but the terraces are evident everywhere.  I don't know if there would have been forests here or just scrub... but to think of the hours and hours of labor that were needed to terrace the hills is astounding... the terraced hills go on and on, from valley to valley.  It was after Albania broke relations with Russia then China and had very few trading partners... the dictator, Enver Hoxha, declared that they would have to feed themselves... thus, the terraces for fruit trees.

A shepherd and flock

As we were traveling, we stopped to take a photo, and alongside the road was a flock of sheep and a shepherd calling with a word or a whistle.  It made me think of the Great Shepherd, and how we can hear His voice.  I watched, thinking, as I watched the sheep respond to their shepherd's voice and command.  Oh, that we could be so attuned to our Shepherd... that we would obey without a thought as He directs us through the cares of the days.  This particular shepherd was a Roma, and was most interested in asking us for a smoke.  The similarity ended there...

Fresco of old monastery

Bill was intent on seeing a village with some Orthodox churches dating from 1000 AD or so.  We saw what look like frescoes from that era - they could use a little restoration... they were probably decorating the walls of storehouses during the Communist time... but it was absolutely fascinating.  Unfortunately, we were not allowed to photograph the ones inside, but this fresco (I think) was decorating the outside of one of the monasteries.  The old buildings had very few icons left inside... again, no photos.

Orthodox cathedral in Korce

Korce was never occupied by the Ottomans, at least that is what I've been told... therefore, the people have been Orthodox (remember, it is in the south), and Islam hasn't had much of a foothold.  The cathedral is "the place" for Greek Orthodox in Albania, and we were there on Palm Sunday.  There aren't a whole lot of palm trees here, so instead of palm leaves, Roma or farmers were selling laurel (bay) leaves.  The courtyard was very fragrant, and loads of kids asked us if we wanted to buy from them.  I have decided that I decline, but then say something like, "Mirdita" or "Mirmanges"... "Good day" or "Good morning."

Orthodox priest

Inside the cathedral

When I meet a Roma begging, when I look them in the eye and tell them "Good morning," they generally smile back at me with a broad smile and return the greeting!

There was not the same proscription of photos in the cathedral, so here you can see you the elaborate interior.  For the service (which I didn't photograph), the bishop had on a bejeweled head covering which rose to about the height of a top hat or more.  He (and the other priests) were in pastel robes, most with beards (I think all had them, but I wouldn't swear to it), and there were a lot of people just milling around.

The faithful come into the sanctuary, approach one of the icons, some under glass, pray, cross themselves, then kiss the icon.

Well, my friends, the restaurant is open, but my eyes are not.  I will continue with my adventures on the morrow.  I have much else to share, including how these travels have influenced my overall view of ministry here... but until then, naten e mir!

Saturday morning in Pogradec

Villages along the way - a farm

The air is crisp, filled with wood smoke.  There is a little ice on an occasional roof.  Welcome to Progradec.  Look on a map of Albania and you will find that we have traveled to the east and south.  Pogradec is located on the banks of Lake Ochrid, seemingly directly across from Ochrid, Macedonia - Joe’s pastors’ conference was held there some years ago when I traveled with them and introduced a table runner to the pastors’ wives.  Now, a prize for the first person who can tell me what is so special about Lakes Ochrid and Prespa (I think that is the name, I am without internet right now and relying on my memory, a little dangerous)...they are unique lakes.

Podagrec is not as well developed or as quaint as Ochrid.  I expected that.  Even so, it is a “destination,” and serves as a vacation spot for Albanians, Europeans and others.  There is a special fish here - the Coran fish...I think it is spelled differently, but I’ll have to take a peek at the menu again.  It is a speckled trout of some sort... understand that I am NOT an ichthyologist, but, I saw it described as such.

Two painting schemes... a family feud?

The trip here was full of switchbacks, and we traveled in quite a rain storm.  Ah, that it could have been rain in California!  It snowed yesterday morning here in Podagrec, and there was snow mixed with rain on the trip here. This morning (it is about 6), Bill and I will take a walk, and try to find some Ochrid “pearls.”  There is a special bivalve which is only found here, from which they make “mother of pearl” necklaces, at least on the Macedonian side.  I’d like to show some of my friends in Albania a product made in their land which is quite sale-able to those outside of it...I’m looking for a way to spark those creative juices.  Pray that a vision can be cast for these friends of mine!

There were many villages along the route here, and villages also dot the shores of the lake.  Bill, the official photographer (and on the right side of the car), took several photos of family farms en route.  There is something so exciting about spring - the fresh green of new plants, new life.  The grasses here are tentatively poking their heads out, making the mountains a lovely green.  When I was here before it was in the fall, and the landscape was more arid.

Macedonian villages

OK, so what is unique to my eyes...cows grazing in the public park across the street.  When I mentioned this to Alban, he said, “Of course, there is a village nearby.”  Livestock grazing in the park must be typical....I have seen a man grazing two goats in a neighborhood park in Tirana, a single cow along the river in Tirana...but here there were a dozen or so and a donkey.  It’s good use of a resource, though, just different for me.  There are no lawn mowers in evidence, so to have a few quadrupeds taking up the slack makes total sense.

Socializing around a fishing boat

Podagrec is less prosperous than Tirana...you can tell from a quick walk around town.  After stopping at Tirana East Gate (brand new and the biggest mall in the Balkans, I’m told) to replace my neck pillow, this is a big contrast.  But, the people do what I have seen in most cities...in the afternoon (after the rain finally cleared), they get out and just stroll along the main thoroughfare.  Here they stroll along a broad sidewalk at the lake’s edge.  There are teens playing table soccer - a concession by a fellow who is having a wonderful time talking with colleagues around a fishing boat.  There are older wives and husbands ambling along, multigenerational groups of women with their children and infants, some others are walking alone.  Along the walkway Is the Presidential Palace - a retreat built for Enver Hoxha which is now a governmental retreat, complete with a small building which looks like a hotel with, perhaps, ten rooms, a large residence and then a dormitory for the security forces.  There are no cattle grazing there.

A walk through the city is much like one through Vlora - small stores and repair shops, some new apartment buildings and the older communist era apartments.  There is an Orthodox church with a sign saying “Happy Easter,” a priest animatedly conversing with several middle-aged men on the porch...some colored jars along a temporary shelf which I decide are similar to Easter baskets...perhaps?

But the air is brisk and clear, like the mountains in California after a rain.  We will go to see a Christian mission here - there are several, especially from northern Europe... Germany, Switzerland, etc.  They have helped with sanitation (raw sewage was traditionally dumped into the lake) and have started other health projects for the people here.

I am looking for traditional arts - so, we’ll see what we can find.  Must go now, others are stirring, and we have lots to do.

Pafshim!!

PS - Sorry that I can't seem to move the photos around!  So, they are all grouped at the beginnng!

What a busy day...

It’s 11 pm, and the weather is cool and crisp.  I am beginning to think perhaps it is cooler here than at home... Tomorrow we leave with Alban and Dori to retrace some AERO steps.  Where we are going the highs are in the mid--50s with showers, the lows hover around freezing.  OK, where is all this spring weather?  This is the coldest it has ever been for me while I’ve been in Albania.  But, my body is happy so far... enjoying the coolness and not desiring the heat or humidity that I have usually found here.

Working on ministry lists...

I last left you in Vienna.  I was working away, trying to get all my ministry lists in order when I heard a voice say, “Hi, there!”  Bill was slowly moving along the moving walkway and happened to see me at a chair they are beginning to put in some airports which have a desk-height shelf and a couple of plugs.  What a surprise!  I hadn’t expected him for another half-hour; he had made it in great time.  It seems that his arrival gate was right around the corner from the departure gate, and the computer hadn’t beeped when he went through screening, a signal for a random pat-down.  Remember, I’d been the lucky winner twice on this outbound trip!  So, we ambled on down to the departure gate, and waited.  As we were gathering our stuff to board the plane, I looked around for my neck pillow.

Working on my blog note

Now, I’ve only been here 8 or 9 times with that neck pillow - something I guard with my life, almost.  It saves me much pain... so when I didn’t find it, I RAN down to the computer desk, looking left and right all the way for the pillow.  No such luck.  I must have left it on the last plane - I probably plopped my satchel right down on top of it, and since I was still in a sleep-deprived fog, didn’t even think to check under my satchel as I deplaned!  So, spent some time this morning on a quest to find a new one... not so easy in Albania.  Apparently, there are very few neck problems here.  But, did find a wonderful book with drawings of folk costumes which may be helpful in trying to start up a business for some of those I’m helping.

Genta at Stephen Center

Had breakfast with Genta, an incredible witness and a great friend!  She was meeting here with her teammates to evaluate some of their projects. Then off to ETC (European Trade Center) in search of the pillow.  Alban says he will stop at the largest, newest mall tomorrow... he knows just which store stocks them.  I sure hope so, otherwise the road trip promises to be a problem for my neck.  Doggone it!!

The Berhamis

Took the bus to one of the ministry areas, met with our partners there, then back for a nap (man did that feel good), then dinner with the Berhamis.  Yum!  Adi is such a good cook!  Touched bases with a number of our partners and friends, firmed up our obligations and plans, and feel that things are ready.  So, a glance at the past with Alban, Dori and Bill, all the while looking to gain knowledge about the people and places of this wonderful land, and for new opportunities.  We’ll put on our running shoes and head out on Monday morning!

It is definitely time to sleep, but wanted to greet you and tell you that things are shaping up very well so far!  Adi and I talked about our plans for Tuesday.  I have plans to meet Olta on Monday, then home visits in the afternoon.  So, lots on the docket.  But, for now, naten e mir!

Vienna

Austrian Airlines at Vienna Airport.

OK, I'll rename the blog the litany on the airports!!!  But, knew how interested all of you would be in all the airports en route - and to enable you can travel with me...OK, the real reason... I don't have anyone to talk to!

Bill and I were separated in Frankfurt... bummer!  Would have had 9 hours together there if we could have changed my Frankfurt/ Vienna leg to his flight and then we could have taken a bus trip into town.  But, perhaps it's for the best... for the first time in my life, I laid down on a row of seats and took a nap!  Quite a new experience!

No rain, but it looks like it could

So, see the beautiful sky?  Remember AG is in the 70s?  Well, not so here.  They keep the airport quite warm, but every crack let's in the "real" air.  Shiver!  People are still dressing like it's winter here... hasn't anyone told them?  And, it looks like it's about 6:30 pm here, doesn't it... so, why does it feel like it's 10 in the morning? 

Moving walkway and an elevator!  The bigtime!

Snoozed all the way from Frankfurt - actually thought I'd be awake, but no way!  It was a good thing, my seatmate was seated on my "wrong side," and it would have been a problem with my wacky neck.  So, all in all, a good thing.  But, didn't engage like Larry said I should... just was pleasant, took out by Bible because I actually thought I'd read some... and promptly fell asleep!  And, that after sleeping about 6 hours on the over water flight, an hour or more in Frankfurt!  Not an unpleasant way to travel.  I must say, though, I don't know whether to have breakfast, lunch or dinner!

At any rate, the last time I was in Vienna, the Tirana flight was off in the hinterland... down a narrow concrete hallway and then down two long flights of stairs to get to the gate.  There were only a few vending machines and even fewer passengers waiting.  I felt like I was on my way to Siberia.  If you remember, or if you look back on the blog, the seats were lime green plastic.  But, today, the flights to Tirana have entered the 20th, if not the 21st century... see the long hallways?  Even a moving walkway!  What a change!! 

Just in case you wondered, you can tell when you are in a German airport... glass enclosed one-way corridors with alarmed glass doors to the corridor going the other way, everyone rushing!  Austria is a little more relaxed.  But, very little English, and even fewer vegan or lactose-free selections for my errant meal.  So, had cold cuts, scraped off the cheese and was happy to have something.

Each flight gets me closer to Albania... and makes me more excited!  But, probably the best news of the day... I think I've been through my last security inspection!  So far today (which started yesterday), I've been randomly selected by the computer to go through two extra inspections.  How's that for luck?  And here, in Vienna, the most thorough one yet... ever!

Pafshim.  Next blog from Albania!!  Wahoo!!

Frankfurt

While you guys are slumbering away, we've been busy!  Arrived in Frankfurt about 10:50 am local time (1:50 am PDT), and have been to a variety of desks to try to finagle seats on the same plane to Vienna.  Currently, I leave at 4:50 pm, and Bill leaves at 7:50.  However, it does not seem to be "in the cards," so to speak.  So, I'll be in Vienna 3 hours before Bill... unless there is an empty seat on my flight.  So, that meant that, during our rescheduled flights and a 9 hour layover in Frankfurt (for Bill) we couldn't take a short trip into Frankfurt to see what it looks like.  Oh, bother!

Frankfort Airport

Airports are remarkably similar... even down to coordinated efforts to tear down the old  and construct the new.  So far, both LAX and FRA (Frankfurt) are construction zones.  I must admit that the new Tom Bradley International Terminal at LAX is much nicer than the old one.  AND, we flew on a brand new 747... well, sort of.  It was only 2 weeks old.  That doesn't mean that the seats or personal space was any different... in fact, it felt a little tighter to me.  It was impossible to get out of my seat when the fellow in front of me had his reclined, and fairly tight even when his was upright.

We found a quiet niche in the older section of FRA for our extended layover - but more and more people have decided to join us.  When I awoke on the plane this morning, I said to

Signs of upgrading

myself "Only two more security screens until we get to Tirana!"  What a sad comment on the state of affairs today.  How I long for the time when a lion will lie down with a lamb.   If it were only possible to change all the human "lions" that stalk our planet and disrupt the peace that was intended.

About security screenings, though, I think I have it figured out... whenever we arrive on an "international flight" (like from Frankfurt to Vienna) or change airlines, we have to be re-screened.  Oh, well, a small price to pay.

Just wanted to add a comment to the blog... to let you know that we are, at least, in the right time zone.  Now, it's just a matter of getting a little further south!  Enjoy that beautiful weather we left!  And, see you soon.

Despite a very late night sorting and packing, I awoke this morning with a start!  Today begins the long trip to Albania.  I can just imagine flying in over the green hills with the mountains in the distance, wondering what everything is... Is that Kruja?  Where is Durres?  Can I see Lezha?  Unfortunately, our schedule was adjusted and we will be arriving at 11:50 pm... After a VERY long layover in either Vienna or Frankfurt, depending on whether you are Sharon or Bill. 

But, as we dodge and swerve from UAL at LAX to the Tom Bradley International Building, the anticipation grows.  It is so strange!  Being with someone else!  I even forgot to send an itinerary to Bill, so he is “flying blind,” sort of.  But, despite that, he is incredibly chill.

A long flight from LAX to Frankfurt is boarding in about a half-hour, and we will settle into the routine.  Hopefully, we will be able to sleep.  Hopefully, they will have lactose-free food for me.  Hopefully, we can get on the same flight from Frankfurt to Vienna.  But, even if all of those comforts never materialize, it will still be exciting... A new adventure!

So, it’s time to begin to pack away my computer.  So, PAFSHIM for now... See you Thursday... We arrive about 3 pm PDT, if all goes according to plan.