My Last Saturday Here... 15 November

Well, the process of completing everything, sorting through what to bring back and what to leave, saying good-bye to good friends has begun.  Gosh, if only Albania were not so far away!

Impressions of Albania... it continues to be so winsome in so many ways.  Each time I come, my circle of friends increases.  This time, I had the opportunity to sit down with Elna, the lady who has changed all those $ into Albanian legal tender.  She is a Muslim by tradition, but her sister is a Christian missionary in Guatemala.  Interesting?  It is common here.  I've met Pajtim and his wife, Jona, energetic and dedicated Christians whose interests parallel some of the goals I've been pursuing.  Then, there is Nik, a dynamo and involved with ABC clinic.  If only I could bring these people back with me, so you could meet them.

The country as a whole continues to change.  Traffic is more orderly - a result of increased penalties for running a red light.  Now there is the possibility that you could go to jail if you don't obey the traffic signals.  Pedestrians, however, continue to walk and cross at will (I hate to admit, but to cross the street, one often has to be aggressive here... my training in NYC has come in handy).  There continue to be a great number of stray dogs, but an increasing number of pets, pet stores and vets.  Road construction continues... now that the Socialists (primarily from the south) are in power, the road to Berat (in the south) is receiving some attention.  But, you still have to watch where you plant your foot!  New sidewalks are dotted around the city, and usually accompanied by rough concrete, loose tiles, or outright holes without a cover.  Sidewalks are a place for conversations, to park cars, motorcycles or bicycles, for tables, produce or merchandise spilling out from a local cafe or shop, or for blatant enclosures to increase the square footage of the existing businesses.  So, walking anywhere - or driving for that matter - always requires careful attention to detail and the ability to change directions at lightening speed.


There continues to be a committed and dedicated Christian community - both ex-pats (read foreigners) as well as nationals.  They are an inspiration... such an encouragement to me personally, and hopefully that enthusiasm will be contagious to all of you when I return.  Despite hardships, separation from family, an often apathetic populous more interested in materialism or simply surviving, they soldier on.  Instituti jeta e re, a national Christian organization affiliated with CRU, evangelizes on campuses, but also plants churches, builds partnerships, addresses issues important to the Christian community both here and far.  They are active in foreign as well as domestic missions... and are meticulously interested in the spiritual health of their staff.  I don't know how they do it all, to be honest!  I thoroughly enjoy just chatting with them over a coffee, or addressing serious and deeply held beliefs.  Despite our mutual transparency, we remain friends... amazing!  Man, is it going to be fun in heaven!!!  It was an honor to meet with many of my Instituti friends last night and catch up on their news, see their spouses, and think about some serious issues.  Thanks, everyone, for including me!

This morning I will address issues related to the community nearby, and will fill you in when I get home.  It is easy for me to be an American... more difficult to change gears.  So, as we contemplate the future of that ministry, I'd appreciate your prayers... not for any problems, but for direction.

OK, pafshim for now.  Today and tomorrow SHOULD be a little less busy, and perhaps I will manage another blog-post before I step up out on the tarmac to fly away from here.  If so, I'll list in more detail the last few days... otherwise, I guess you'll just have to wait until I get a chance to share with you in person.  Mirupafshim! 

9 November - gray skies

It's been over a week since we posted a newsy blog!  Who knew?  Things have gone so rapidly here, that I had not realized the time lapse, although the zero hour for return is fast approaching.

Don's prototype

Don's "office"

A challenging Bible study group

As you may already know, the blasted virus (for which I had been immunized, was taking Airborne and zinc) found me last weekend, and since there was a cancellation in our schedule, decided to spend Saturday and Sunday (1 & 2 November) in bed... literally.   Katie and I did get up Sunday afternoon to tour Don Zollinger's factory/ministry center, and to attend Roma church/Bible study with Don and the Schoch's.  The Zollingers sure are energetic, full of ideas and have a ministry format that is not all too different from ours, so it was good to see what he is up to and see how much progress he has made.  He also showed us his most recent product - a moderately priced stove which seems to be somewhat popular, so he is gearing up to produce quite a few to cover his orders.  The Shochs have been here "since forever" and have gleaned a lot of knowledge about the Albanian Roma.  Their ministry has seen fruit, but it is a difficult group to reach... they are so intent on today and rarely plan for tomorrow.  That means, we have to make the Bible relevant for this 24 hours to them... not relevant for the future (heaven, judgment, etc. that we understand so well).  An interesting challenge.

Approaching the prison is intimidating!

Katie enjoyed it!

It starts out organized.... really!

Suela is back!

Downstairs at Steven Center

Katie with the CRU crew

Monday we went to the prison - it was wonderful (as usual).  A couple of our friends will soon be out, and plans were made to meet up with them when we can.  The ladies loved the colors and patterns of the fabric we brought to make flowers, I think, the ability to do something different, and to know that we continue to visit them.  There were many that we had seen before, and, even though we can't speak the same language, we can be there again and again so they know we care.  We learned a lot about the system - each time a little more - and we'll share when we get back!  One thing that will be different from the last two visits is that Suela is back!  She had a baby, and has just returned from maternity leave.  So, we'll be visiting with her again, and Vita will be doing something else with the prison ministry... maybe we can even go with her to the "holding" prison where the ladies stay while their cases are litigated.

Things generally start off "slowly"...

But, rarely stay that way...

As people get busy...

Then photos!

Monday afternoon was the last time I saw Katie (sorry the photos are "up there").  We split up!  She helped the CRU ladies and their daughters made flowers at the Qendra Stefan while I went with Vita to Vora to do the same thing with her church ladies.  Both groups seemed to have fun - it is so rewarding for us when everyone seems to enjoy making the craft we've worked so hard to prepare!  We shared our testimonies, included in at least the second group were some ladies who were brand new to the fellowships... so that was GOOD!

OK, I'm getting frustrated with the blog... it's hard to manipulate the photos.  Anyone out there have an English speaking computer that actually follows verbal commands???  Could use one...

Tuesday was "devoted" to preparing a lecture... with only a few welcome interruptions.  Had lunch with Julee, then had a wild buying session with Dava on the other side of the table, her sister in Shkodra on the phone translating her Albanian for me and me on the phone with Katie and e-mailing her pictures.  But, think we all got it done properly.  Dava seemed happy with the sales, and Katie with the purchases. 

Intracellular sperm injection

Presented the ethical conundrum of in vitro fertilization to the ladies at CRU Wednesday morning, and they were incredibly interested I think.  We had a lively discussion about what we felt was ethical with IVF - and touched on the related subjects of personhood, societal obligations to protect the weak, and a consensus of when life begins.  So, it was a good beginning to what might become a series on ethics and the Christian.  Here, there are few barriers to anything which we, as Christians, might consider unethical.  It's actually not too different at home, and we often stand silent.  WE, the hands and feet of the Most High God, need to be advocates for the weak and undefended... read babies in the womb or lab.


OK, that's enough for today.  I really have had enough of this program.  More has happened, but I will bring you guys up to date tomorrow or later.

Be blessed!  Be bold!  Be like our Savior!

Pafshim!  Ciao!

7 November - a night to remember

I don't know how you feel about it, but I can say that I am firmly on board.  Capital punishment is definitely important to maintain order.  And, I have summarily executed the offender.  Yes, even spilling blood... mine.  When a small flying offender interferes with deserved peace and slumber, then it is time to make it an example for others!

It was a battle!  All night, I was dive-bombed by a small, pesky and very hungry mosquito... leaving me with a swollen eye (a bite), bites on the sole of my foot, the palm of my hand and every piece of my anatomy that the offender could find undefended!  I only had a quilt, and it was quite warm.  So, I would cover up and shortly after falling to sleep, throw off my covers and voila!  A target of opportunity!

Well, I bided my time then placed the offender in solitary for 14 hours (in the bathroom), but she showed no remorse.  At the next opportunity, she again tried to interfere with my calm reflection.  So, she was summarily executed!

As for being an example... another of her relatives decided to interfere with my slumber last night.  While I have awakened this morning with even more swelling of my eye, I feel as though I prevailed.  I used the Off! that I had, changed to just a sheet and blanket, and slept looking like a mummy with only my nose protruding for air.  My nose survived without injury, but some injuries were sustained.  When able, this new offender will reach the same fate as her predecessor.

So, capital punishment - a needed procedure!

 

Greetings on Hallowed Eve!

Albanian alps - taller than they look - enroute to Kosovo

Well, it's official.  I have a cold!  Now, Charlotte, this is despite the Airborne, and yes, I'm taking zinc.  I have just ordered mountain tea (the universal antidote here in Illyrium), orange juice, and oatmeal.  That should take care of it, right?  Katie is doing great, though!  No worries yet for her... we have separate rooms, so that is good.  She leaves to spend time with Dori and Sabina on Sunday...

Wednesday, we spent the morning at CRU.  The ladies sandwiched and quilted.  I think we need another session for binding.  These ladies are amazing!  They are trying to make perfect projects on their first attempt - and coming pretty close!

Of course, en route to CRU, we saw the most amazing things.  Now, you remember the chickens that are sold across the street from the Steven's Center, right?  Well, along the Rruga Elbansanit was another live offering.... turkeys!  Poor things!  And, Katie said she saw the chicken man stuff his live chickens in a plastic crate, cover them with an old piece of cardboard, bungie cord it onto his scooter, and he was off!

In the afternoon on Wednesday, we went to Bathore... missing the bus stop!  As a result, we traveled to the center of Kamez (not too far away) first, then Bathore.  The ticket taker on the bus laughed at us... we got off on one side of the street,  crossed the street and got back onto the same bus!  Back to Bathore, and the opportunity to see all that Ida has done.  20th anniversary celebration with Steven's Center - on Wednesday with an outside concert... which was kind of outside of our window at the Jolly Hotel.

Katie's a natural!!

Yesterday, back to Bathore, and a meeting with all the widows.   Katie had suggested we talk about heaven, then gave a testimony which was a wonderful introduction.  Then I got up and talked about the assurance of heaven, all pandemonium broke out... well, not maybe it wasn't that bad.  But, there was an incredible amount of discussion - you know the drill... "But, I am a good person!" "But, I am better than my neighbor" - and the Albanian Bible teacher, Migena and Ida spent about 20 minutes discussing our eternal assurance.  Good call, Katie!  They told us they were happy to be able to teach on that subject!   The audience was enthralled with Katie's testimony, and were responsive to my questions.  So, all in all, I think it went well!



Today to Rudi's church, this afternoon to visit a friend in her home.  OK, it's time to get going!! 

Pafshim!

October 30

Blogging and researching

So, why is it that you get your best sleep AFTER you press the snooze button?  I have been pondering this unanswerable question since yesterday morning when that is exactly what happened!  This morning, we had no morning appointment, so we both luxuriated in the ability to just lie there and pray, snooze and slowly decide to get out of bed.  I think this is the first morning when we could wake up when we wanted. 

The Stephen Center was busy - now they are off to see the new handicap center.  I decided we would go later, when things are not quite so crazy.  The 20th anniversary celebration for the Stephen Center has impacted everything here... crowds at every meal time, and the staff are SO busy!! 

Planning church outreach for women

Talking about busy, it's been a busy time for us, as well... and there has been little time to do anything but ponder during the bus rides, etc.  Today we go to our friends outside of Tirana for this month's meeting.  Katie will give her testimony, and I will be tapped for a lesson of some sort... pray God will lay something profound and thoroughly appropriate on my heart... I've considered several things, but God is so good, He usually sorts it all out by the time I speak.  So, your prayers would be appreciated (to remind Him that otherwise I'll be left hanging).

My favorite "librari"

Look cold?  It is!!!

OK, so what has happened while we've been here?  Well, we've met with Rudi and Lejda to talk about their women's group, we've been to the prison (no camera, sorry), talked to Migena about Shkoder and our work here, visited a wonderful bookstore, traveled with the Manellis to Kosovo to worship with a small fellowship of believers and seekers and had a chance to walk around the old city of Prizen - quite picturesque - and had burek (for the first time for me... didn't want to try until I knew there was no butter/cheese), and we FROZE!!!  Prizen has horse-drawn vegetable carts, even on Sunday.  It is an incredibly beautiful old city, with several mosques (large) but three small Orthodox churches.

I was surprised to see horse-drawn cart

 A beautiful stone foot-bridge

Kosovo is very Muslim!  It is a hard place to witness; families often disown a new believer (which happens in the US, too, by the way).  There is a wonderful Kosovar pastor and his wife starting a new fellowship in a village outside of Pristina.  It was an honor to be able to worship with them and learn of their plans... which are quite enthusiastic!

Burek, Kosovo style

Some brothers and sisters

We've met with our friends in ministry to the Roma here in Tirana, and will hopefully worship with them this Sunday, then spend a few moments learning about their activities and plans.  Don is working on stoves to sell for this winter.

We have renewed so many friendships, met with the women from CRU to sandwich and quilt and generally had a wonderful time meeting, chatting, having coffee, and filling our schedule!! 

And, guess what! Last night we had dinner with the Berhamis where Adiel completely stole the show... until Charlotte and Joe showed up.  And, guess what!  Both Katie and I completely forgot to take a photo!  And, we saw Arvid!  Arvid accompanied Joe and Charlotte to Macedonia where they met with their friends there... boy, has Arvid changed!  He has cut his hair, but is the same ol' Arvid!  It was good to see him.
So, now you know that we have been busy, and today taking a rather lazy morning as we pack and prepare to move hotels, get ready for our meeting this afternoon, and Katie shows me what we will be doing tomorrow - and Monday - and Tuesday - and...  Her craft is a HIT!!!

OK, guys, e-mail either of us if you have questions we can answer.  I will fill you in on the city later.  But, right now, just wanted you to know that we have been trying to keep up with our hosts here in our other homeland... hear that, Scott???

Pafsim

October 27 - Tirana, Kosovo and beyond!

Here is Katie's blog post:

Five days ago we landed in this country we have both fallen in love with. A place that I thought I'd travel to one time 5 years ago and now have returned for my 5th journey. What calls me back? That answer is simple, the Lord has laid it on my heart year after year. When I'm not here, I'm thinking and planning my next trip. When I am here I am rejoicing in the Lord's faithfulness and watching this once Communist country enjoy their freedom and watching as more and more Albanian's learn about Jesus's love for them.

Byrek, Kosovo style

In the time we have been here so far we have, walked, talked, eaten, drunk coffee, traveled, tried to sleep, and seen God's fruit in each place we have gone. Yesterday we had the opportunity to travel to a small village outside of Pristina, in Kosovo. It was a 4 hour drive from Tirane and we left at the crack of dawn (5am) to travel there. This village was 99% Muslim but there is a new church plant there and they have seen fruit. A pastor and his family have followed God's call to start a church. They are renting a small building where they gather together on Sundays to praise God and grow in their faith. Their numbers are small. Yesterday there were about 12 people and that included us, the pastor, his wife and children, and the couple we traveled with. Although the number is small, these people are coming to faith in Christ. Last week one of the men was baptized! They are praying for opportunities to share their faith with others, and have many plans for outreach projects in the community. Please join us in praying for this small church that is now just a seed being planted but by God's grace will
bloom!

The seed of a new church - in the center of darkness!

We are currently getting ready to head out to a suburb of Tirane to visit some of the widows Sharon has connected with. I'm excited to see more of this ministry she has started and meeting these women who need the light of Jesus in their lives.

Thank you for your faithful prayers during this trip. The verse "Be still and Know that I am God, I will be exalted among the nations, I will be exalted in the earth." Psalm 46:10 has been running through my head since we have been here. We will be still, knowing God is with us and using us to reach this nation!

And, from Sharon:

Praise God for these opportunities.  Each time we stop in the Steven's Center, we see more people we already know, and more opportunities to encourage, share and partner arise.  Thank you for your prayers... we so covet them, and need them.  Charlotte, you will be happy to know that I am taking my Airborne each day!  So far, so good.


 

We arrived! Friday, October 24

We arrived on Wednesday evening!  It was raining "cats and dogs," there was a cloud layer over all of Europe from Frankfurt to Tirana, but the plane somehow found the airport, and popped through the cloud layer landing without incident.  That is all good! Alban took this picture as we were coming through the door.

For the first time in years, we were asked to put our luggage through the x-ray machine... but there was nothing of interest!  So, we loaded them back up and proceeded out the door.

Yes, it all fit in Alban's car... I was surprised.  He was so kind, and took us to our new abode... the Jolly Hotel right around the corner from the Qendra Stefan.  We settled in, had dinner and slept.  It reminds me of that song, "Sleep, glorious sleep... " (instead of "food").  It felt good to lie down.  Both Katie and I enjoyed the trans-Atlantic flight at the bulkhead.  We could get up without too much incident, and also stretch out without a problem.  Wow, different from all those other flights that make you bend into a pretzel.

This morning we met with Adi and Berti - it was wonderful.  This trip just feels like we're home!  It is so familiar!  And the people are so good to us!

We will be doing some sewing with this group at CRU - next Wednesday.  Adi and several other women are making the "Road to Albania" from years ago.  Wednesday, we will sandwich and possibly quilt a smaller project, though.  We'll decide what we are going to do with Adi, hopefully this weekend.  Already, Adi has the batting we brought as well as the other things she requested.

Today was spent contacting people.  We are ready to see four or five people tomorrow to plan our days, and it sounds like we will be traveling to Kosovo.  Berti and I discussed those daunting speeches I will give.  And, I never took public speaking!  Well, God will find me there and use me for His purposes, I'm sure.  We also talked about other important things... did Adam and Eve speek with the animals in languages that they both understood?  Did Adam and Eve actually hear God walking in the garden?  I know it doesn't make a whit of difference for our salvation, but I must say I enjoy trying to figure out weird things about the Bible.  

Tomorrow we see our friends from the suburbs.  One of my projects was to try to come up with a piece of jewelry that based on an Albanian artifact, and turn it into something (hopefully) that can be sold as a tourist souvenir.  Here is a embellished purse found in the area surrounding Tirana...  here is the adaptation... well, now that I look at them together, I wandered fairly far afield, but you can see the similarities.  Pray that this is sale-able here.

Well, it is 4 or 5 in the morning.  This trip, so far, is like a past one where I would wake in the middle of the night and not be able to return to sleep.  Hopefully, I'll acclimate more readily than I did before...  Katie is doing somewhat better than I am, but it is a tough transition sometimes.

See you guys soon!

Mirupafsim.

PS - To our friends in California... rain still does exist!  It still is wet and wonderful!

 

It's Wednesday - and it's rain again

I can't believe it's been since Sunday that I have written.  It seems like the time is going incredibly fast, and it seems like I am busier than ever.

A fellow "walking" his cow in search of grass

We've done sewing, jewelry, and have both scheduled for the next week.  Also, a prison visit and conversation with the health care team about the hospital.  I have heard rumors that something has been happening at the hospital, so don't know if it is still available.  But, God knows.  Then, there is  lots of strategizing.

One of the things I hope I add here is a little "thinking outside the box" for those who are here full time.  And, cross-pollination...  For instance, one friend is very excited about the Christmas panair (think the Christmas markets in Hamburg, Munich, Budapest, etc. - this is what I'm shooting for in a few years), and when I talked to Berti and Adi, they could see the possibilities, too.  The churches could participate, candy canes (with the story of how they came to be) could be available.  While we were talking about the panair, a friend of theirs from the church in Elbasan talked about the problems she is having there... her ministry feeds children, widows and the elderly, many of whom live in shacks, literally.  We talked about food, strategizing about how to organize the people under her influence to share their food... Berti talked with her at some length.  Hopefully, we will be able to go to Elbasan in the fall with something for them... I'm not sure that sewing is what they could use, but perhaps jewelry.

Korca - the Paris of Albania

Saw some photos of a panair in Lezha which happened yesterday without much notice - but it included many of the things that I hope will happen at Christmas.  They had dancers walking around in traditional garb, local foods and crafts.  But, my friend said that it could have been vastly improved... and she is the organization person. 

While Bill was here, we had the opportunity to look at various products in stores, prices, and we strategized at length about what might sell and which kind of stores to place the products we complete.  We're working with ladies here on jewelry as well as traditional products.  One of the ladies made a blouse which I think is quite sale-able, and there are those she knows who know traditional arts to embellish the blouse.  So, while I think at the end of the day, when I'm alone, that not much has been done - and perhaps you think that all I'm doing is traveling around - when I sit right now and think about it, I think we have made progress.

Most homes have a grape arbor

The weather warmed on Monday - yesterday was warm and humid.  Today is a little cooler, but promises rain.  Bugger!  And, I have a sore throat, cough and chest congestion.  I forgot to pack the zinc lozenges I usually use to try to head off a cold, and will have to begin a scavenger hunt for them because I think they may well help.  With the warmer weather come open windows... and I had just managed to capture and execute the dive-bombers which had been leaving me with what appear to be chicken pox each morning!  I get a blistering reaction to mosquito bites!

OK, I should probably get going... this afternoon I have a jewelry class and a sewing class scheduled as well as a meeting.  So, it promises to be a busy day.  Miss you guys - actually about now I usually get a little homesick, and begin to wonder if God is doing much through me... but I know He is here, and I trust I am doing what He would have me do.  I trust that He smiles in pleasure at the end of each day at what has been done... that is my goal!

Mirpafshem!

Easter Sunday in Tirana

Gezuar Pashket!  Zoti e bekofte! (Happy Easter!  God bless you!)

Well, it has dripped, if not rained, all yesterday and today.  Bill left yesterday at about 2:45 am for his 26-27 hour long trek home and he has e-mailed me to say that he arrived in one piece.  For the first time in Albania, I feel alone.

Emiljan, me, Genta, Blerina, Klajdi

I slept after Bill left, then worked on my computer trying to organize things, then joined a friend for a trip to Lezha to spend Easter with her family.  We took a bus, then shopped for dinner, then she made an incredible bounty!  Her sister-in-law's kitchen is small, and I am not a "natural" in the kitchen, so I stayed out of the way.  We had a feast with her brother and sister and their spouses and one little niece.  Also, two cousins joined us - after dinner we relaxed watching the Albanian version of "Master Chef."  It works a little differently - they start out with 25 or so cooks, then whittle it down to one over several weeks.  It is a favorite show here, at least among the people I know.  After church, I realized I hadn't taken a photo - we are at left - Emiljan and Blerina are siblings to my friend, Genta.   Ada, Emil's wife and his daughter were home.

Watching the childrens' program

Genta's home church is the largest in Lezha, and is large compared to many of the churches I have attended here.  This celebration is combined with a much smaller Friends church in the city.

A skit by the older kids

The children put on quite a show this morning - songs and a skit about a storekeeper who was having many problems.  At the end, the girl who witnessed to him talked about "my truth and your truth" and made a very salient point quite brilliantly, I thought.  She picked up a magazine to buy, and when she was leaving without paying, she said that "For you, you are selling it, but for me it is free."  Somehow, it came off better in person.

Singing - this little girl caught my eye

According to Genta, many of the children/youth here are not affiliated with parents who attend the church.  Fabulous!  

We have talked about a Christmas bazaar in Tirana - you could pray that it "pans out."  In my dream, it would have multiple stalls for traditional, hand-made products made by villagers and disenfranchised alike - read widows and Roma.  We could have a food booth, and people walking around in traditional dress, and...  you see what happens to me over here?  While it seems like a dream to me, it sounds like it is a very doable idea to Genta!  We will pray and do what we can.

Well, I am back in my room at the Stephan Center, and making plans for a busy week.  I hope to do several sewing projects, meet with the Roma missionaries again to see if we can collaborate, and I already have a few craft projects scheduled.  I'll let you in tomorrow (if tomorrow isn't TOO busy!!).  But, for now, I will say Mirpafshim, my friends.  See you soon.

Soggy Wednesday, the 16th

Has it really been since Saturday?  I have been having problems with the internet - first in Korce where, despite my best efforts, I could not get on.  Here, in Tirana, I do not have internet in my room, and I have so busy that the restaurant has been closed, or my eyes have been!  So, it has been longer than I thought.

Saturday we traveled to Korce from Pogradec.  Check out a map!!  Oh, and by the way, nobody won the prize for telling me what is so special about Lake Ochrid!  OK, I get to eat the prize myself!!  Your loss!

Alban, Dori and Sharon getting a tour from Hirolinda

Before we headed out, though, we stopped at a small village where there is a compound that has been built by a German humanitarian group - Nehemiah.  Perhaps some of the AERO alums will recognize the name... it is where the teams stayed when they were centered in Pogradec.  What an incredible compound.  They now have a school, K-12, and a university granting BA and MA in one course of study... I think it is business administration or something to do with business.  It is amazing... lots of things going on and lots of

The chapel

Lots of new construction

 construction.  There is also a small medical clinic in this compound which serves the community as well as
those in the school.

Then up in the mountains we traveled... seeing more and more horse and donkey carts loaded with goods, lots of cows on "leashes" being taken out to eat along the road, or donkeys with unwieldy loads.  The donkeys here surely "earn their keep."  The people live primarily in villages - obviously, the ones I saw were close to the road.  The farming here is mostly by small family farm.  A family owns

A typical family farm

a strip of land, then plants whatever.  There were not many tractors in evidence, the plowing probably being drawn by a donkey.
   
It's interesting, Alban says that the villages are where the one story buildings begin, and the city is where the multistory apartment buildings are.  While that may have been true, the farmers are selling off their land to developers... sound familiar?

Terraced hills

And, another oddity - well, not exactly an oddity, but a curiosity to my eyes.  Remember that for 50 years, Albania was governed by a Communist dictator.  He felt that it was wasteful to have hills covered with trees or scrub rather than fruit trees.  So, he ordered the people to "volunteer" to terrace the hills and plant fruit trees.  Very few of the trees have survived, but the terraces are evident everywhere.  I don't know if there would have been forests here or just scrub... but to think of the hours and hours of labor that were needed to terrace the hills is astounding... the terraced hills go on and on, from valley to valley.  It was after Albania broke relations with Russia then China and had very few trading partners... the dictator, Enver Hoxha, declared that they would have to feed themselves... thus, the terraces for fruit trees.

A shepherd and flock

As we were traveling, we stopped to take a photo, and alongside the road was a flock of sheep and a shepherd calling with a word or a whistle.  It made me think of the Great Shepherd, and how we can hear His voice.  I watched, thinking, as I watched the sheep respond to their shepherd's voice and command.  Oh, that we could be so attuned to our Shepherd... that we would obey without a thought as He directs us through the cares of the days.  This particular shepherd was a Roma, and was most interested in asking us for a smoke.  The similarity ended there...

Fresco of old monastery

Bill was intent on seeing a village with some Orthodox churches dating from 1000 AD or so.  We saw what look like frescoes from that era - they could use a little restoration... they were probably decorating the walls of storehouses during the Communist time... but it was absolutely fascinating.  Unfortunately, we were not allowed to photograph the ones inside, but this fresco (I think) was decorating the outside of one of the monasteries.  The old buildings had very few icons left inside... again, no photos.

Orthodox cathedral in Korce

Korce was never occupied by the Ottomans, at least that is what I've been told... therefore, the people have been Orthodox (remember, it is in the south), and Islam hasn't had much of a foothold.  The cathedral is "the place" for Greek Orthodox in Albania, and we were there on Palm Sunday.  There aren't a whole lot of palm trees here, so instead of palm leaves, Roma or farmers were selling laurel (bay) leaves.  The courtyard was very fragrant, and loads of kids asked us if we wanted to buy from them.  I have decided that I decline, but then say something like, "Mirdita" or "Mirmanges"... "Good day" or "Good morning."

Orthodox priest

Inside the cathedral

When I meet a Roma begging, when I look them in the eye and tell them "Good morning," they generally smile back at me with a broad smile and return the greeting!

There was not the same proscription of photos in the cathedral, so here you can see you the elaborate interior.  For the service (which I didn't photograph), the bishop had on a bejeweled head covering which rose to about the height of a top hat or more.  He (and the other priests) were in pastel robes, most with beards (I think all had them, but I wouldn't swear to it), and there were a lot of people just milling around.

The faithful come into the sanctuary, approach one of the icons, some under glass, pray, cross themselves, then kiss the icon.

Well, my friends, the restaurant is open, but my eyes are not.  I will continue with my adventures on the morrow.  I have much else to share, including how these travels have influenced my overall view of ministry here... but until then, naten e mir!