31 October - the air is feeling like fall!

It was a crisp walk home last night as the full moon was waning and the streetlights hadn’t yet been lit.  As we sat down for dinner, we both noticed the boy at the next table who had two Halloween balloons on sticks... the first Halloween decorations I think either of us has seen here.  It reminded us of the preparations at GBC for the “big bash” last night and we prayed for a dynamite outreach!  How did it go?

Yesterday was an early morning, we had to be the first to order breakfast in order to wend our way to Zoguze (“Black Bird”) by 8... no, it’s not the circle that actually has the black bird (double headed eagle) in the center, that is Dogana.  I’m sure I have been told why this particular circle is called “Black Bird” but for the life of me I can’t remember right now.  We found a mini-van idling shortly after 8 slated to head north to Shkodra.  Ahhhh, sweet success... we were on schedule!  But, it didn’t leave for 45 minutes until every last seat was filled.  Well, that made us late...

We were meeting our friends at a church in Shkodra to spend some time with the ladies there and then the children in their new children’s center.  There were the yummiest looking cream puffs on serving plates tempting us as we sat down.  Debbie gave a brief account to the women about what she would be doing with the children later including the creation story, then we talked briefly about why God made Eden.  Have you ever thought about it?  A perfect place, made by God for the purpose of visiting the only creatures He made in His image and which were, as yet, perfect.  Picture that for a moment... speaking with your Creator, the Holy and Just God of the Universe, easily and casually about the day’s events or even just about random thoughts.  In the field over there are many others of His creatures, creatures over which you have been given dominion, enjoying the afternoon sun as it begins to slip towards the horizon.  Savor that.  No predators, no sex shops, no pollution... idyllic.

Our hostess, Voska, and her children

Why did God make the garden perfect?  Why were the people who lived there perfect?  Because God is Holy, He cannot tolerate imperfection... sin.  Well, we surely deserve to enjoy the garden, don’t we?  Why, aren’t we perfect?  That is I was perfect until this morning when I... there was discussion around the table, then laughter as the point was made.  OK, now we have a problem.  God desires to spend time with us in the Garden, but how to become perfect again in Creator’s eyes?  If God is Holy and also Just, then what should happen to imperfection?  It must be banished - "the wages of sin is death...", but there is a solution "... the gift of God is eternal life through Jesus Christ."  After discussing our loving God's solution to this conundrum... that is our perfect Savior who sacrificed Himself for each of us... we made Christmas tree ornaments designed to reiterate this truth through colors.  It just so happens the colors work well with Christmas!

Opening the center

In honor of the pastor murdered in blood feud

A leisurely walk around Shkoder followed, lunch on the walking street, then to the brand new children’s center for its inaugural event.  We felt privileged.  The children’s center is intended to enrich the lives of children, particularly those caught up in the whole “blood feud” mess.  Many of these children live in homes where stress is an understatement, where their fathers are furtively looking through the window curtains just waiting for the horrible moment when the bullet might find its target. 

"If you're happy and you know it, clap your hands"

Combine this with some somewhat oppressive traditions, particularly for girls, and the center becomes a welcome relief.  The children of two families finally arrived... transportation is a problem.  After songs, Debbie masterfully presented the creation story, supervised a torn paper craft, then treats and finally a reinforcement of the creation story through a second craft.  Even the oldest seemed to enjoy the festivity.

Creation

Paper craft making things created

 Oops!  We must hurriedly find a van before it is too late.  We did, it was leaving almost as we stepped in.  Back to Tirana, a slow walk home in the crisp air and thoughts of home.  Please know that you guys are in our thoughts and prayers while we are here, despite our activities and the excitement of new places, people, and challenges. 

Bekime (“Blessings”)

25 October - Tirana, the city of 9000 steps!

Sunday, 25 October

Hummm... a city of 9,000 steps!  While most days I approach 10,000 steps, yesterday I was close to 13,500 steps (~ 5.5 miles, 13 flights of stairs, and over 2000 calories).  One glitch is that my step counter is on Pacific Summer time and my little interpreter that communicates between it and my computer is still in Arroyo Grande.  So, Charlotte B., I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to match your record!!  As far as my step counter is concerned, my “day” starts at 12 midnight PDT, which is about when I get up here.  These monumental hardships (the inability to communicate with my computer) make for good memories... (add smiling emoticon here)  Since I rarely realize when I make 10,000 steps in 24 hours, I have decided to add a moniker to Tirana that is, at least, accurate... Tirana, the city of 9000 steps!

Although we had planned a trip to Bajram-Curri last Saturday and had everything set out to pack, we unexpectedly spent the weekend in Tirana... leading to no fewer adventures.  It was particularly disappointing to miss a trip north as we had looked forward to finally going again to Bajram-Curri for months before our trip.  I learned it was also difficult for Theresa and Migena who had changed so many things to schedule this outreach and plan our visit.  We know that God had His hand on this change of plans - disappointed as we are.

Amarildo (Donna's son) Deb and Donna

 Donna works “upstairs” at the Qendra Stefan, and we have become close friends over the years, despite my poor language skills.  She has invited me to her church repeatedly and, because we stayed in Tirana this week end, we finally got to go!  This is a church begun through the efforts of Nashua, a Brazilian missionary of my vintage (she is 70) who first came here in 1992. 

Nashua met Donna’s sister at the International Hotel, eventually lived with Donna and her sister for some months, and then transitioned to her own place.  When living with Donna and her sister, the three of them started Sunday meetings, inviting whomever would come.  This home church grew slowly until now they are the only evangelical church in Kamez with a congregation that on Sunday morning numbered about 60-70 people - a large church.  People work various jobs which require them to work on Sunday, so I am told the entire congregation is much larger.  Unusual in my experience here is that the congregation was comprised of all ages from small children to grandfathers and grandmothers.  Unusual also... Nashua preached!  And, it was obvious that God spoke through her preaching... I glanced around and every face was riveted on her.  Her very presence is powerful!

This church has prayed for years for a building.  It is very common here for a church to rent a space... sometimes on the very top floor of a walk-up.  This coming summer, however, their church building should be completed through the efforts and alms of the congregation and the anonymous gifts of others.  In it, they plan a food bank, small coffee bar for the poor (with reduced prices), vocational and language classes, homework help... you name it.  I can’t wait to be able to walk inside this monumental work and marvel at the strength and glory of our Lord.

Please remember us as you go about your day... we could really use your prayers.  I know that the Republican debates are coming up soon, perhaps you could pray during the commercial breaks...

In the meantime, mirupafshem!

NEWS FLASH 28 October... there is no blackout in Albania!

The electricity company is still generating electricity.  The Qendra Stefan still has WiFi.  My computer is still working.  But, I must admit that I have prioritized sleep over blog-posts... sorry!  This is the fourth blog-post I have begun and I am determined to finish it before I turn in.
You can tell from the paucity of news that things have gotten a little busy here.  I could catalog all that we have done so far, but rather than that I thought I would let you know that it was a beautiful day today and Debbie got lucky... she had the morning off while I visited Lezha. 

During the  first days here, a close friend asked if I would meet one of her friends in Lezha who had asked to see me.  The itinerary for our trip changed about three times, just since Monday, as we tried to accommodate Genta's work schedule (which, in typical Albanian style was fluid).  Genta and I left the Qendra Stefan at 7 - that is, before breakfast.

As I waited for her at the Bazaar Irri across the street (for those of you who have been here, the vegetable market has a name), I watched as the area "woke up" for the day.  Despite pronouncements by Eddie Rama, "home-made" vehicles still roam the streets although in lesser numbers, hand carts are pushed among the cars, and increasing numbers of bicycles and motorcycles complicate the morning commute.  The egg company a block from the Qendra Stefan was hustling with all their eggs this morning, vans coming and going as the vendors opened their booths at the bazaar.

There is construction in the area of the "smaller" market around the corner so that the vendors from there have relocated to the main Tregu (market), making the bazaar quite crowded.  There is no parking any more beyond the market.  Rather, that area is brimming with stalls which means even more congestion as people stop to do their vegetable shopping to or from work.

Finally, I spotted Genta and we began our trek north, passing through countryside that has become familiar over the years.  The fields were green (what a sight for this Californian), the houses multi-story and built in such a familiar pattern.  I didn't get any photos, but let's see if we can find some from another trip to post another day.

Lezha is south of Shkoder so the road reaching it is fairly good.  That means that there are stretches of good, even pavement interspersed with areas where potholes abound, pedestrians line the dirt shoulders, active construction blocks lanes and stealth obstacles such as areas just jack-hammered last night to stretch a small cable across the road leaving a shallow ditch perpendicular to traffic... significant for car tires.  Anyone who drives in Albania is, in my book, VERY SKILLED!!

 Lezha is a smaller city surrounded by hills and crowned with its very own castle.  My friends promise to show me around the castle one day, noting that "their" castle is not as nice as Shokra's... I don't know, it looks pretty good to me!  We had breakfast in a lovely restaurant, the "tourist coffee bar" I'm told, open since 1926 or so... even during Communism.  The walls were lined with fowl, trophies from generations past it looks like.  There are beautiful wooden beams and floor.  The eggs were perfect, the company even better.

My new friend joined Genta and me at breakfast, then Genta left to do her "work thing."  I had the opportunity to stroll the seaside in absolutely delightful weather while learning about my new friend.  Shinjin, a coastal village/town now part of Lezha proper, is along the shore.  You can see the summer condos that will be filled beyond full in the summer but are now quite empty and very appealing.  Most of the inhabitants of the shoreline at this time of year seem to be Roma... primarily children who should be in school, asking for money from the obvious foreigner while under the watchful eye of a parent somewhere.  Oh, that God would reach down and heal these people - from their poverty and their destiny.  The small travel trailer with windows covered with cardboard or paper is most likely home to an entire family of Roma.  It is parked along the boardwalk.

While in Lezha, I heard from my friend Vita who asked if we would join them for a women's group this evening.  So, after returning to the Qendra Stefan, running a number of errands and a stealing a half-hour of rest, Debbie and I were off to Vora and a fun evening with old friends.  Most who came were members of a church I visited last spring, some were new.  After introducing ourselves, Vita shared from the Psalms, led the singing of a beautiful hymn (these women sing with such passion - such a blessing), then we settled in for the important business of the day... a craft.  The craft reenforced Vita's message... we explained the colors chosen for the Christmas ornament as we went along... dark for sin, red for the blood of our precious Savior and so on... then Vita reviewed the colors and their meanings so that the ladies could tell their significance to others when the season arrived.  To a couple it was a new concept.

Finally, after a day of errands, friendship, fellowship and travel, we got dinner.  Lunch was a fleeting thought that never materialized, so we were both famished!  Then a quick Skype conversation with Bill, and now this.

It is definitely time for some zzzz's.  Today was a typical day... although we usually have two or three full meetings rather than just one.  Tomorrow, please pray for Debbie... she will be leading two meetings on kid's crafts and children's ministry.

Naten e mire, everyone!

Debbie arrived today - 20 October

Alban and I just got back from the airport with a weary Debbie!!!  And, all her luggage arrived with her!  We will soon go to dinner, and then I think she will want some much needed sleep in a bed!!

It's been wet today... it's been so long in California that it is still a somewhat unique experience.  Alban says that the "Californians bring the rain"...  it's essentially been dry except for the days that we Californians have arrived.

Last night, as I was passing one of the rooms in the Qendra Stefan, my peripheral vision caught a fleeting glance at a guy sitting in his room with an open door.  I thought I recognized him... from my peripheral vision???  "Jim?... Is that you?"  There was no answer, so I ever-so-slowly tried to stealthily peer, undetected, around the open door jam to decide if my peripheral vision had indeed just tricked me or if it truly was Jim... and, it was!
So, while I was with Don and Krystal, Jim, Joe, Charlotte and traveling companions filled up rooms down the hall (there are only 6 rooms total).  With them was a pastor from Iowa and ex-Southern Californians who are now in Kosovo.  We chatted for awhile in the hall, then met everyone this morning with Adi, Berti and others to share ministry experiences and visions for the Balkans.

So, this morning we learned about incredible things that are happening and foundations being set for ministry in Macedonia and Kosovo.  Michael and Rebecca have been invited by the Kosovar government to develop the sport of baseball there (apparently, baseball is becoming quite popular in Europe).  Meanwhile, David has started an NGO in Macedonia. 











Check out Michael's mitt... have you ever seen one quite like that???  Yes, there is a white thumb.  Imagine what an opportunity the colors provide to tell about the Good News!  Michael and Rebecca have all sorts of visions for ministries in Kosovo as off-shoots of their project to develop baseball there.  And, David has started an NGO in Macedonia to interface with Albanian-Macedonians, teaching them English and trying to find other  platforms for developing friendships.  He, also, has all sorts of ideas for interesting and unique ways to engage that culture.

Spent some time planning what we will do tomorrow, tried unsuccessfully to get some errands done, then went to pick up Debbie.  If I can, I'll give you a little idea of what happened with some Roma kids yesterday and the visions that Krystal and Don have for their ministries!  Right now I think I'll try to wrestle Debbie away from unpacking and get some chow!

Mirpafshim!

10,000 steps by 3 pm - Monday, 19 October

On the day I left, I walked 10,000 steps by 3 pm... almost 14,000 (according to that little device on my wrist) by the time I got onto the plane in LAX headed for Rome.  While I haven't yet made that goal while here, I have managed 10,000 by 6 pm with added steps before turning in... and that doesn't include walking up stairs!  Albania is a walking place.

What is new?  First of all, it feels so much like I never left here.  The weather, the people, the friends!  It truly does feel like my second homeland.  If only God would plant the ability to learn/speak Albanian into my head!  That would make it perfect!


The first new thing I noticed is a filtered water station right across from the Qendra Stefan... it looks like a big copper coffee pot.  There are others I've found dotting areas I have been so far... built in the pattern of small castles.  These are a gift from Kuwait.  They remind me that not all people have access to safe water - either in Albania or elsewhere.  In fact, when I mentioned this new "decoration" to my friend Elda, she commented that she has a can outside her shop to collect run-off water from her air conditioner.  One day, she saw a rag-tag man pick up the can and he downed the dirty water before she could manage to get to him so she could offer him her own water bottle.  It is a good reminder that lives elsewhere face different challenges than we face - like a lack of healthy choices we take for granted.

The desperately poor are still here.  While the government is trying to enforce the "laws on the books" (anti-pandering, for instance), and while this is most likely a good thing in the long run for the country, a consequence is that it further marginalizes the already marginalized and powerless.  Getting people to pay for their electricity, for instance - which was reportedly free under communism (making the concept somewhat oxymoronic to many) - has resulted in many of the poor being unable to pay and being disconnected from the grid.  On the one hand, a fairly common cause of death here is electrocution as men climb polls and try to "scab" electricity from someone else; additionally, the electrical infrastructure is inadequate.  This means that enforcing the law hopefully means fewer men will die from electrocution and the electric company will begin to have funds to maintain the infrastructure.  Even so, there are unintended (but anticipated) consequences.  Isn't this always the way?  What is a good thing often has a potential for bad side effects - take medicines, for instance, with their long lists of potential side effects.  Life is so often a balancing act... it gives me sympathy for those making decisions on a governmental level. 

Another consequence of the government trying to make order of chaos is that most every vendor now gives a receipt with every purchase.  That will make accounting so much easier for me, but for small vendors, the machine they are required to purchase is $400 and one of its major goals is to make sure that taxes levied for all purchases will actually begin to be collected.  Competition with vendors who do not collect taxes makes it difficult for those who wish to follow the law.  One of the differences here (and in much of Europe) is that the VAT tax (what we might call the "sales tax") is added to the price of the item to be sold rather than added to the bill at the time of purchase (as we are used to).  Adding the VAT to the price of the item makes it somewhat "invisible."   Making the tax "invisible" makes it easier to adjust the tax without too much fanfare because most people don't realize how much of the purchase price is tax.  It is kind of like the airline ticket we bought to come to Albania.  One of our tickets was, let's say, $1500.  I was interested to find out the actual fare payable to the airlines, so I clicked on something called "fees" and learned that less than half of the ticket price was for the airline and the rest was a litany of landing fees, airport fees, security fees, etc.  The next time you purchase an airplane ticket, look at the breakdown.  It's interesting.  We need the protection and maintenance of airports, but since all of that is included in the "airfare", we have no idea how much we are paying! 

Yesterday was really fun!  I went to Cornerstone Church at Instituti Jeta e Re (CRU) and got a chance to listen to a guest speaker preach... the head of Child Evangelism Fellowship from Hungary!  He spoke on 1 Corinthians 4 - a text helpful to me on this trip.  After the service, I talked with him and met the head of CEF in Albania as well as the head from Romania!  Triple whammy!  There was also  a missionary couple from the church who were back on a brief home leave and were introduced... they do relief work in Turkey... I'm interested in talking to them via Skype after I return home to learn more about how they approach Syrians (and others) fleeing the chaos in their homeland with the Gospel.  I also caught up with a lot of friends!  It is so good to be back!

After that, I had an opportunity to present a craft at a women's retreat for one of the churches here.  Their emphasis was on small groups - and one woman gave her testimony of being invited to a group, not knowing it was a "faith-based" group, which eventually led to her salvation.  It was inspiring!  And reminds me that we need to have places to invite unchurched women which are not overtly evangelical, but are safe, fun, and inclusive. The craft we did was a paper Christmas craft with a Gospel story.  The women were excited to be able to replicate the craft with their children and to decorate their tree with something that could spark a conversation.

Well, off to meet with a friend in health care - to find out what is happening there!  Pray for Debbie as she wends her way east... she starts out fairly early on Monday, but doesn't get here until Tuesday at dinnertime (time change and travel time).  Please pray for safe travels and an easy transition to Central European time for her.  The time change is always a challenge.

Mirpafshim!

The first real day... Friday, 16 October

Guess what's missing!

A traveler traveling without luggage!!  After my first flight was canceled due to weather, I was completely rerouted.  Then, my new flight from LA to Rome was delayed for a couple of hours making the lay-over in Rome something less than 30 minutes.  I figured I would be braving the first night with very few of my things as my clothes and phone were safely tucked away in the "carry-on" which I was required to check in LA because it was too heavy.  But, all my luggage finally arrived this afternoon so we are now "fully equipped," at least with all the things that were packed.  Although some might say that my mental capacity is still lacking!!!  Hopefully, after a full night's sleep things should be better in that department, too.

The weather here is strange for a Californian!  It is raining!  What is all this water about, anyway???  It is cool and absolutely delightful.  Krystal met me for breakfast... what a treat!  She raved about all those people who visited from GBC in July to help close her Kid's Center with a bang.  Although she has her eye on a new place, God will have to provide funding for rent, utilities and supplies before she will be able to move in... the space she met the kids in before was excess space in the warehouse Don rented for his business, and supplies were funded by her grocery budget.  With the move from their old center and increasing regulation here, this "double-teaming" is no longer possible.  Because they have no place for the kids to meet, her ministry has been significantly downsized for the time-being!  From my observation, this work of hers has been working amazingly well, both in evangelizing children as well as education/enrichment and provision of a loving and safe environment.  Please pray with me that her ministry needs will be met.  Krystal has such a heart for kids and their welfare/protection/education.  She sees a child made in the image of God in every child she sees - both the Roma child from "the river" as well as a child born to a more privileged family.

The rest of my day has been spent reacquainting myself with the things I packed (or remembering what was unable to fit... too much had to be left behind) and meeting with old friends.  One of my friends, a delightful lady vet who now works at "my" currency exchange shop, stepped out of her shop to close it just as I was on my way past it to Vodafone to "buy" some minutes.  We had coffee together - her mom died since I was last here, so my joy at seeing her was tempered somewhat by her obvious loss.

Please pray as I begin with a rather large group on Sunday and will be all by myself until Debbie arrives a few days later.  Remember me to God as you all worship with Jason, Justin and the crew!  This is the largest group I have met with, yet!  Falemenderit (thanks)!

Mirpafshim!  See you soon!