Sunday evening - June 16, 2013

In some ways, Sundays are the hardest for me.  The cheerful ladies who keep this place clean and with whom I've managed a bit of a pantomimed conversation are gone.  The restaurant is closed - and with it all the people who come and go and with whom I've become friends.  There's Robert, who runs a myriad of errands, speaks very little English, but who has become a friend.  There's Joseph, and Toni, the servers, cooks... and there is nowhere close which is quite the same.  It has become a bit of a ritual to eat alone downstairs, but to brave one of the restaurants where the servers are not fluent in English makes me afraid I will become sick with this crazy lactose intolerance that plagues my physical form.  Often, I just buy some things at the grocery and muddle through.

So many women in mourning, aways busy

This morning I attended a new church in Tirana e Re.  As I waited for my close friend who was going to walk with me, I sat at the Opera coffee bar and had a... no, not a coffee... a lemon soda.  Everyone drinks macchiatos here - I'm not sure how Starbucks does them, but here they are espresso with steamed and foamy milk (and added sugar).  Since I can't have the milk, I have been in the habit of getting an espresso, which I finally figured out gives my stomach a run for the money.  So, I've switched to lemon sodas.  Now, why doesn't a lemon soda do the same thing?  Got me!

The headgear to the left - village?

At any rate, I was sitting at the Opera, enjoying people watching.  I will never grow tired of people here - such variety.  The widows, these from the north, walk by.  I've learned that many of them are young enough to be my daughters, although their weathered skin makes them look much older, their faces much thinner.  Other women with headgear that is not immediately recognizable - Muslim?  Village woman?  I think the former.  A well-dressed woman in high heels pedals by going somewhere - see her heels?  Children with political flags walk by ... evidence of an impending election.  In fact, evidence of the election is everywhere - more posters and flags each day as the suspense builds.

Children carrying political flags

It's tough enough to have 2 parties, imagine if there were over 60!  Yes, in Albania there are 66, but most (all but 4) are lined up with one side or the other... the Partia Demokratike e Shqipërisë (complete with the Podesta group) or the Partia Socialiste e Shqipërisë.  The former alliance, called the Alliance for Employment, Prosperity and Integration, is headed by Sali Berisha, the current prime minister.  He is from Tropoja, and is supported by many from the north.  Although he is, by tradition, Muslim (with at least one of his two children active in that religion), I understand that he has been seemingly even-handed with the evangelicals.  From what I can garner, he upholds traditional values, but is accused by many of being corrupt (so what else is new?).  The opposition alliance, Alliance for a European Albania, is led by Eddie Rama, former mayor of Tirana.  He is an artist - responsible for the colorful buildings in Tirana - but reputed to be less focused on traditional values but a good administrator, a little hot-headed - and also reputed to be corrupt.  What appear to me to be rumors abound, and there is no real consensus among my Christian friends.  But, it makes for fun conversation - I'm a sucker for a political discussion.  Perhaps you noticed. 

 Movement for "New Albania"

Socialist Movement for Integration

Everyone seems to be primarily interested in getting honest government, but are skeptical that it can or will happen.  They almost universally feel that politicians, by nature, take advantage of the people,  becoming politicians to become rich.  They cynically comment that the only times streets are paved is at election time - and then the paving sometimes is poorly planned... surrounding power poles in the middle of the "street" (rather than adjusting the street or the poles) making the street difficult to maneuver.  Isn't that true the world over?

Here you can see a street being prepped for pavement - but it is not all that different than many of the side streets I've traveled here... and then another with fresh asphalt - behind me is a fellow putting the finishing touches on cement around a manhole.  He didn't look like he wanted to be the subject of a photo, so I'll just tell you about him.

Last night I visited a church somewhere in Tirana - Yzberisht - it is south of the road that leads to Durres, I think.  At any rate, you can see the asphalt around the telephone and power poles in the middle of the street.  There is not enough room on either side to comfortably maneuver, although an occasional car did just that.  Also, many of the poles were leaning!   Perhaps you can appreciate that in this photo.

I have so much more to share, but this missive is taking on the proportions of a tome, so I'll bid you adieu for now.  This land is amazing, this land upon which Paul walked.  The people are becoming my people - the part of our family that is here, dear to me.  Please pray for this wonderful land - this enduring people.  Pray for peace - known only through our wonderful Savior and King.

Mirupafshem.